Molto Largo

Because I'm so easily distractable, I also stopped by the Andante stand to see what they had out. Many of the cheeses were ripe looking, the Nocturnes especially, but I was wary. We've been burned by the Nocturnes before and I've bought too many ammoniated ones. I mentioned this to he very nice guy manning the table and he looked at me with what seemed like genuine surprise.

"Really??"

"Really."

I asked if maybe we could peel back the plastic wrap a tad so I could smell the cheese before I bought it, but he demurred, which I have to say, truthfully, put me off a little. Nevertheless there I am holding out some cash and walking away with a cheese. Ever the optimist.

I took this little quarter, which he said was, "basically Camembert."

Now we've had Camembert, by Jove, we've had Camembert that was produced in a tiny village in Normandy from the milk of absurdly smug cows. We've had Camembert that we wanted to dive into and swim in for a few days.

And I love Andante. I think Soyoung Scanlan's cheeses are faboo and I love the fact that she's making them right here practically on our front doorstep, but, honey... that ain't Camembert. It's not anything like it.

It's fine-- the cheese is good. Not runny, mind you, but good, although there's a bitter edge to the finish on the rind and the center seemed to be unfortunately underripe. It's not like I'm not going to eat it, of course. Obviously.

Still, we've had a few so-called American Camemberts. Some of them make nice cheeses, and use the same processes that give rise to traditional Camembert. Marketing, branding, you want people to recognize it. I get it. Nevertheless, folks, please, for the love of Mike -- can we call it something else?? It's just not Camembert and it's breaking my heart.