Pack 'em in, Straw

So last night we checked out the new eatery, Straw in Hayes Valley, which I should say up front is the brainchild chef Naomi Beck and Ari and Maura Feingold, the latter of whom are friends of ours. It was actually a bit of a sneak peek, as the restaurant doesn't open til Jan 24, but get ready to line up for a prime spot in the fabulously cush Tilt-a-Whirl booth when it does.

A block up the street from the Octavia Green, Straw is sandwiched into a cozy space at 203 Octavia where Pots of Soul used to be, so if you're missing that comforting breakfast spot with quirky offerings, this might just be the place for you.


The inspiration is stepped-up carnival food, and yes, there is in fact a cotton candy machine. Last night we tried the truffled popcorn ("Highbrow Lowlife"), as well as some fabulous potato chip nachos with cheddar bechamel ("Easy Cheese Revisited") and the beignets--oh Lordy, the beignets --fabulously guilt-inducing apple beignets with caramel sauce ("State Fair").

The menu has lots more to offer, with some standards done upscale --corn dog hush puppies with drawn butter ("Gimme some Lovin"), a crunchy peanut butter and apricot preserve sandwich ("Grilled PB &J"), chicken and waffles with raspberry jam ("Fried Chicken-n-Waffle Monte Cristo")-- and then some some adventurous items -- a burger on a Krispy Keme donut ("The Ringmaster"), peanut butter satay with jalapeno ham and pork belly ("Boxcar Children"), Linguiça sandwich with lavender honey mustard ("The Satchmo").


The Straw menu calls the Carny Style, but I think we should call it the adventures in comfort food I never knew I needed til now....