
Last week, my Omnivore and I set out to answer these and other questions at the Whole Hog Dinner 2009, cooked up by Oliveto. It was a gift of Mr. and Ms. Art Attack, which is ironic in that Ms. Art Attack is a vegetarian. But she knew we'd love the idea, one of the regular special dinners on offer at Oakland's Oliveto Cafe and Restaurant.

I remember as a kid reading with great interest in Little House in the Big Woods how the Ingalls family slaughtered their one pig. Here's what I have learned from this experience: 1) a single humble pig could feed a family of four, 2) you're not supposed to eat the whole pig on one night.
Le Menu:



So pictured above is the salumi platter of sweet meats, consisting of mortadella (at the top, light, sweet and possibly my fave among the meats), pate cappriccioso (the wedge to the right of the mortadella), pork liver pate (the wedge below drizzled with maybe a balsamic? A fantastic, fantastic, savory-sweet pate, really, one of the best I've ever had), salame cotto (continuing clockwise around the plate), and a fine coppa di testa (or head cheese). We had to do salumi, because Oliveto is where Paul Bertolli started his handcrafted salumi revolution before founding Fra'Mani, which is ONLY our favorite salumi in all the--well, really all the world. Honestly. And yes, I'm including the salumi we had in Tuscany.


I'm not the biggest fan of tongue, although this was very good. I never get "big" flavor from it, but Oliveto certainly knows how to cook it for perfect texture.



I actually really loved the pastas, all homemade I'm presuming, because the texture on all of them was really silky and lovely.



Throughout the evening, I must interject here, I was trying very very hard to pace myself. Don't get me wrong -- I enjoyed everything. I had little bites of all the dishes, certainly plenty to taste -- but at this point, I was starting to get that full feeling...Seriously? I've had like a bite of pate, a slice of mortadella, a bit of cotto and head cheese, a half bite of a heart, a long paccheroni, a smidge of salsiccia -- I'm really not eating that much, but my brain is going. "Wow, great dinner...and that's a wrap..." Except that we're, like, halfway through.




We saw it go by to another table and--well, first, let me say, it looked a lot, a LOT smaller-- but it also looked succulent and irresistible. This is a pig foreleg, with the bone taken out and replaced with ground meat. It says on the menu "to share" and they ain't kidding. It's absolutely delicious and unusual -- the flavor of the saba sauce has a terrific spiciness, almost like clove and cinnamon on a Christmas roast. I scooped out a slice which was about the same size as a quarter-pounder burger and then considered it on my plate. It might as well have been a horse.
The whole dish is incredibly rich, partly from the fat, partly from the well-developed flavor, and about two bites in, I knew I'd be forcing myself to eat, so I had to put my fork down. There was still bacon ice cream yet to come, I reminded myself. I took a few bites of the shaved fennel and puntarella, just to clear my mind and it actually helped refresh me quite a bit-- one of the pleasant mysteries of eating that I often wonder about, the relationship between flavor on your palate and that feeling of "fullness."
Anyhoo. yeah, we took a lot of that home. A LOT.

And as a little extra, since we were celebrating My Omnivore's birthday, albeit a little early, the server brought the little plate of candied bacon that is at the top of this post, with a candle in it. Maybe he was trying to get back in my good graces after blowing off the banter.

Okay, my good man, I believe we're ready. Be a sport and bring my wheelbarrow around and help me get in it?
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