
"Looking is free, ain't it?"

"You humans pay too much for cheese."
Damn, he's good. Gary Danko, I mean.
Service is a big deal--BIG deal--at this place. I'm not kidding. And neither are they. It started with the transfer from the bar to our table. Being reasonably able-bodied and not completely snookered at this point, we were fully prepared to carry our own drinks to the table, but the gentleman who came to get us already had a tray in his hand onto which he deftly placed the three glasses. We duly followed him to the dining room and as we did the "where do you want to sit?" tango with each other, I thought, geez, does he even remember who had what? As soon as we were committed to a seat, without missing a beat each glass sailed down to the table in front of the proper owner.
Danko's offers a tasting menu, or a "design-your own" a la carte menu, and so to maximize our possibilities, we opted for one tasting menu with wine pairings (Ms. Food Snoot), and a four course menu with its own wine pairings (PQ) and a four course without wine pairings (designated driver).
To start with, of course, there is the "little treat" as the server said.
Ms. Snoot's first course: glazed oysters topped with generous dollops of Osetra caviar, paired gorgeously with a 2006 Gruner Veltliner from Rudi Pichler of the Wachau region of Austria.
The PQ's mix of green and white asparagus, nestled under greens with red peppers and a red onion vinaigrette as well as delicately poached quail eggs. Eggs and asparagus -- so perfect. It came nicely paired with a 2006 Teira Sauvignon Blanc from Sonoma.
My soup. The plate came to the table with a napoleon of duck confit, parmagiano and tarragon aioli over a slash of balsamic reduction. I have only moments to enjoy the view before another server is immediately at my side with the most adorable little covered copper pot, from which he pours a creamy asparagus soup that floods the napoleon.
Ms. Snoot had one extra course, a horseradish crusted salmon medallion, not with the dilled cucumbers as advertised on the menu, but rather the freshest green beans in a mustard sauce. As we stared at the lovely looking plate, Ms. Snoot wondered aloud if the wine pairings included a fresh wine for this course, and no sooner had the words left her lips than I spotted our server heading--nay, charging, I tell you-- toward our table with a glass and a bottle in hand, as though the very fact that Ms. Snoot had been left wine-less with food in front of her for more than a microsecond was a crime beyond contemplation. And it was a total winner, an aromatic, fruity and beautifully balanced 100% Roussanne, a 2006 Domaine Quenard Chignin-Bergeron "Vieilles Vignes" from the Savoie region.
Moving on, the PQ tackled her scallops with a goodly glug of Merry Edwards Pinot Noir (2006) from the Sonoma Coast. The sweet scallops were seared perfectly and served with roasted vegetables.
Another example of the toll that tasting all these fancy foods and wine is taking: Ms. Snoot takes a none-too-stable picture of her entree, a beef tenderloin with trumpet mushrooms and shallots glazed in cassis with Stilton-infused butter. Paired this time a Bordeaux style blend of cabernet sauvignon, cab franc, and merlot --2003 Almus from Caldwell Vineyard in Napa. Full and flavorful, but not edgy.
For my main I decided on the quail stuffed with wild mushrooms and foie gras with a Romanesco and rosemary scented potato cake and oddly enough, one of the highlights for me that evening, florets of perfect blanched broccoli across a swath of sweet carrot puree. This last little element was surprisingly spring-like and delicious, reminding me of those perfectly executed little vegetable sides at Cibreo.
Ahhh. the cheese cart. I'd been eying that little vehicle literally since we walked in the door.
The PQ's cheese choices include, from the top, a French Livarot, Cashel Blue from Ireland, Mimolette (a little dry-- perhaps not aged long enough--and in the PQ's opinion, too salty) , and a Cana de Cabra, a Spanish goat cheese from the Murcia region that I had never had before, but which turned out to be beautifully ripe and pungent.
For Ms. Snoot, also from the top, a Brie de Nangis (sadly too old, given the 60-day holding pattern it suffers in customs), Midnight Moon from Cypress Grove and a fabulous Munster au Gewurtz, semisoft and stinkily intoxicating Munster with a terrific rind washed in Gewurtztraminer, the classic pairing for this cheese.
On my plate, from the left, a surprisingly well-crafted and powerfully buttery Grayson from Meadow Creek Farms in Virginia, a smooth and very tasty Gorgonzola dolce, a rather dry ashed "Tradition du Berry" goat cheese-- shaped in a chopped off pyramid like the Valencays-- from Fromagerie Jacquin (they make that fantastic, goopy young St. Maure de Touraine that still haunts my Omnivore's dreams), and a little taste of the sheep's milk Brebiou from the Pyrenees.
At this point, a restroom break. Ms Snoot and the PQ start to explain where I can find "the Spa" as they call it, but then they both stop short. "Never mind, someone is GOING to help you before you get there."
I'm already stuffed to the gills, but for our dessert, the PQ and I are sharing Bananas Foster, which is spectacularly prepared tableside, with flames and everything.
We're fascinated by the entire procedure and have many questions for our now even longer-suffering server.
The finished dish is plated with chocolate crepes and a lovely hazelnut ice cream, topped with pearls of Valrhona chocolate. Exquisitely silky bananas, mmmmmm.
With expert precision, another server breaks into the souffle, and pours, oh, a good cup of creme anglaise and another cup of melted chocolate into the center. Add a glass of Jacques Laverierre Clos Chatart Banyuls (plus a 20 year tawny port for the PQ) and we are good to go.
Just as we're reeling, stuffed and overstimulated, they plonk down one more thing-- the irresistible petits fours.
And the winner was-- Ham for Easter.
The experimental dish of the day was the Hoch Ybrig Cheese Souffle in phyllo cups. I wasn't sure how the phyllo cups would work out, and I also wasn't positive about using the Hoch Ybrig, a wonderful nutty Swiss cheese --affined by Rolf Beeler-- which we picked up at the Berkeley Cheese Board. Overall though, a veritable success. The phyllo was a little overcooked, but that was probably due to my distracted running about the kitchen. The souffles however, rose admirably and made a lovely little presentation at the table.
Mustard-Honey Glazed Ham with Plum Chutney
"Quick, quick, find me a pot!"
Hoch Ybrig Souffle in Phyllo Cups ...with leftovers...
...after the whole field mouse and species reassignment episode, Bunny Foo Foo settled down to a quiet life of egg and cookie decorating.
While Bunny Foo Foo finishes up with the eggs, we also made some Cinnamon Sugar cookies for decorating. As usual, Martha Stewart has some terrific recipes that are easy to throw together.
Cinnamon Sugar Cookies
Line baking sheets with nonstick baking mats or parchment paper and set aside.
Royal Icing
Last year after a performance by Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater, we wandered around the back of the theater, over by the loading dock of Zellerbach Hall and inhaled. Deeply.
The Ailey barbecue started out as a friendly conversation between Danny Nilles (Cal Performance's Head Carpenter), E. J. Corrigan (Ailey's Technical Director) and Calvin Hunt (Ailey's Senior Director of Performance and Production) about what they were going to have for lunch on Saturday. I imagine it not so unlike my conversation with Jamison, "Lovely weather. We should enjoy it-- with food!!"
Dancers and stagehands scatter as the guys jog across the patio with the finished pig, slow-cooked to perfection for about five hours in a china box. It's gorgeous, aromatic, deeply browned and just a little bit freaky.
Over at an eight-foot table piled high with sides--spicy sweet baked beans, candied sweet potatoes, creamed corn, collard greens, apple sauce, homemade cornbread-- we chat with a kindly-looking older woman who's tending the casseroles. She tells us that she made all the sides, except for the cornbread and the beans. As she's talking, I start digging in. I'm not big on greens, but these-- cut into tiny 1 cm squares and intensely, well...green in flavor-- are the best danged collard greens I have ever had in my life.